Cartagena is a short flight from the eastern United States and a manageable one from Canada, and it is one of the few Caribbean destinations that is also a working colonial city rather than a resort strip. What follows is what we find ourselves telling visitors most often.
When to come
The dry season runs roughly from December through April and is the most reliable weather, the busiest period and the most expensive. The rainy months, roughly August through November, bring short heavy showers rather than all-day rain, and considerably better prices.
The temperature barely moves all year. What changes is the humidity. Plan around heat, not around cold: mornings and late afternoons for walking, the middle of the day for something indoors.
Getting here
Rafael Núñez International Airport (CTG) sits inside the city, about fifteen minutes from the walled center. Several US hubs have direct service and Canadian service is largely seasonal, so check current schedules rather than assuming. Connections through Bogotá or Panama City are the usual alternative.
The walled city, in order
The Ciudad Amurallada is small enough to cross on foot in twenty minutes and rewards being walked more than once. Go early for the light and the quiet, and again after five when the heat breaks and the plazas fill.
Worth the time: the walls themselves at sunset, the Plaza de Santo Domingo, the Teatro Heredia, and Getsemaní just outside the walls, which is where the city actually lives. Skip the organized bus tours; the distances do not justify them.
Practical notes
- The currency is the Colombian peso. Card acceptance is good in the walled city and patchy outside it.
- Tap water in Cartagena is generally considered safe to drink, which surprises visitors.
- Spanish goes a long way. English is common in hotels and tourist businesses and rare elsewhere.
- Street selling is persistent and almost always harmless. A clear, friendly no is enough.
What is worth bringing home
Emeralds, if you buy them properly — Colombia is the source and the selection here is better than you will find at home. A real sombrero vueltiao, judged by the fineness of the weave. A Wayuu bag from La Guajira. Coffee from a roaster rather than a gift shop.
If an emerald is on your list, leave it for the first half of your trip rather than the last afternoon. The difference between a good purchase and an expensive souvenir is time spent looking, and a certificate that states the treatment in writing.
Would you rather settle it in person, with the stones in front of you? We are in the Edificio Pombo, open every day from 10:00 am to 7:00 pm.
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